South African Menswear Week concluded
on Saturday 9th of July, leaving us to contemplate the sheer
awesomeness of the showcases that held in Cape Town’s Greenpoint
Stadium.
But amongst over 40 designers who
revealed their vision for Spring/Summer’17, we’ve whittled down our
faves to the 10 collections that resonated most with us – the ones that
scored top sartorial points from Team SPICE.
CHULAAP
CHULAAP
by Chu Suwannapha was just a joy to see unfold on the ramp, with its
bold, “African Surfers” collection making a splash at SAMW.
The range included a collision of
prints, which featured crocodiles, birds and playful Ankara, as well as
pixelated portraits created by UK-based illustrator Camilla Perkins,
which combined for a new sort of nostalgia.
Made in Africa, the collection was
adorned by jewels and customised sunglasses by Rings and Things, which
added to the eclectic and tribal vibes, along with the models’ painted
faces.
Fun and fashion combined here in a way
that felt refreshing, and we can’t wait to dip into Chuulap’s version of
Spring/Summer’17 when it arrives.
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Orange Culture
Adebayo Oke-Lawal of Orange Culture sent
his “School of Rejects” collection down the ramp at SAMW and by the
time the showcase was over, he’d already secured mentions in top press,
including Elle, Marie Claire and Hunger Magazine.
Just brilliant, and bright, the range
included the brand’s namesake hue on mandarin collared playsuits, plus a
playful print made up of hand signs like the ‘Vulcan salute’, sprayed
across shiny two pieces and reminding us of our obsession with emojis.
From the plunging necklines that promise
to show pecs next Summer, to the pendants made in collaboration with
Rokus London, we know where our next style obsession lies.
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TwoBop
Appearing to dance between punk and hiphop influences, South African label TwoBop
created a range of goods that’ll work as well in the streets as it will
online, tapping into that cult-following feel that’s ripe for likes on
social media.
The brand’s model gang stepped out in
bucket hats, bomber jackets and tees with cartoon prints, plus there
were windbreaker-like collared jackets embroidered with a ’90s feeling
logo, up in flames.
Nostalgia here remained key to the designer, whose label is inspired by video game culture from the ’80s to ’90s. And we at SPICE are ready to level up our wardrobe with any of the pieces from this new collection.
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Tokyo James
Nigerian talent Tokyo James
showcased a cool collection at SAMW, entitled “The Circle of Life”,
which saw printed slogans like “No One Cares” running along lapels, and a
retro vibe reworked for looking good, now.
The stylist-turned designer also collaborated with costume and accessories designer, Something Shit, to include these handmade leather and brass neckpieces and harnesses, which punctuated the collection.
We at SPICE love the statement and can see it coming full circle, from catwalk to closets, next season.
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Rich Mnisi x Thebe Magugu
Collaborating on a line for Spring/Summer’17, Jo’berg-based Mr Mnisi and Mr Magugu looked to their family memories for inspiration, working on a range entitled “Family Photos”.
Mr Magugu posted to Instagram;
“…One can’t help but smile when looking down at old photos.When we started this collection, the nostalgia that undercuts the passing of time held our fascination as we started having a conversation around recontextualization and how basic staples could be reimaged, fashioned and even considered modern.”
But the talents also had social-political inspirations, with the emerging designer, Thebe explaining;
“The idea of recapturing all these memories in a re-imagined way made way for a deeper conversation about modernity and how it’s always used as an antonym in relation to Africa, at least aesthetically.It made us start reading the work of fashion theorists who expand on the theory of ‘the west’ and ‘the rest’. Is it not funny how the antonym of words like Modernity, Science and Contemporary are Traditional, Mystic and Antiquated, which are often equated to us as Africans, not only aesthetically but as our way of life.”
The pair worked themes of “Africanism,
Modernity and Family History together with experiences and views of what
it was like growing up in an African home” into a range that saw family
photos appearing pinned to clothes, and menswear recalling ’70s
womenswear via oversized bell sleeves, sheer details and metallic pink
infusions. And we at SPICE fell right in love with it.
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Dicker
Also working with a nostalgic spirit, Dicker sent models out in grungy jumpers and du-rags – a culture clash we’re certain will do well with the cool kids of today.
Instagram-ready and incase you’d forget
the brand name, chokers and high-sitting collars came etched with
“Dicker”, in keeping with the monochromatic palette of the collection.
Team SPICE are Team Dicker for casual outings in Spring/Summer’17.
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Ruald Rheeder
At Ruald Rheeder, there was a daring dedication to lace and luxe trimmings that one might not expect to find for men.
There were plunging lace shirts, beaded
blazers, glittering neck embellishes and Balmain-esque belts and cuffs –
all cut to a slim silhouette and merging womenswear elements with
traditional tailoring.
A highly decadent range for
Spring/Summer’17, this collection’s one for dudes who don’t play when it
comes to declaring their love for shiny things and style.
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Maxivive
Nigerian label Maxivive sent a Harmattan-ready collection down the ramp at Cape Town, called “Yegwa in Venezuela”.
The collection, which tells the story of
a man’s travels through the South American country, included
functional, lightweight two-pieces and dungarees in white and grey, with
sporty elements like mesh and toggle fastenings appearing here and
there.
Perfect ensembles for the Harmattan/Dry
season, this is the range to do your wardrobe right with, whatever the
weather or the adventure.
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Jenevieve Lyons
There was something about SA-based Jenevieve Lyons‘
“Deferential” collection, and it’s easy-abrupt collision of palette and
punctuation; the softening hues of pink, beige and cream along with the
giant tasselled neckpieces, and the unusual blocked-out silhouettes.
Playing on “the ugly, gender fluidity,
and the juxtaposition of what may be culture and amalgamated culture,”
the range works cutouts and belted pieces into an unusual lineup that
speaks of today’s digital landscape.
While we aren’t sure about the
versatility of those one-sided shoulder details, we are intrigued and
impressed by the most wearable pieces; the paper bag-style high waists
and cut-and-paste print of the tops Lyons featured.
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Mai Atafo
Suitwear specialist, Mai Atafo
thought about what he’d like to wear on a Thursday specifically when
designing this range – a day when, according to the designer, “you don’t
want to look so serious, but you also want to look like you can be
serious.”
The resulting “Sartorial Thursday”
collection is a creation of smart-casual separates made from suit
fabrics, which you can style up or down accordingly.
The use of bold yellow is a highlight of
the range and is found on things we’d wear on Thursday, but also any
other day of the week.
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But what did you think of the designs on
the catwalk? Tell us about your favourite collections from South
African Menswear Week, by tagging us in your comments online
@SPICETVAFRICA.
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